Let's talk about karsts, baby!

 I recently had Golden Week off from work, the holiday in China that takes place over the first week of October, celebrating China's national day. Perhaps you've seen the images around the internet of the insane movement of half the population during this week, such as this one from the NY Times:

Well I also wanted to travel, and upon recommendation, I found the most wonderful, tourist free spot possible, just outside of Guilin- a tourist hotspot in Southern China. From a plane to a train to a car to a ferry to a cart... and I made it to my own little piece of paradise. 

 I arrived at an incredible Airbnb created by foreigners but run by locals that goes by the name of Laojia. I almost don't want to write about it because I want it to remain my little secret but, oh well. Laojia is in the small village of Langshi, along the Li River, smack dab in the middle of the famous karsts of Guilin and Yangshuo. Laojia is not your average Airbnb. It's a place where local villagers just come and go, sit, chat, have tea, tend to their gardens. During my stay, I met all the locals. Haibo, Laojia's charming sweet caretaker who showed me how he practices his English. Mao, the most energetic and adorable man who leads the boat rides, runs the convenience store, drives the cart- I think he even drove the ferry haha. Haibo's mother, a little gem of a woman with a giant smile. And the list goes on.

Upon first arrival, I dropped my bags and decided to stretch my legs.  As I walked up the ‘new road’ to go exploring, I bumped into the goat herder. All smiles. We had a short-lived conversation (I'm inspired to work on my Chinese!!) and we walked together for a bit. I think he was trying to explain about his goats. Or maybe he was offering me a cigarette. Or maybe he was asking me about myself. Unsure but it was still great.

That night, a Chinese family from Hunan shared the dinner table with me. The father was quite the character, taking shots of local baijiu (grain alcohol) toasting to the large Mao portrait above, pressuring me to do the same (Dont' worry, I politely declined).

The next day I had asked to hike to Xingping, an ‘ancient village’ that I assumed would be touristy but a nice destination. It known as the village that is shown on the back of the 20 RMB bill. Haibo’s mother agreed to take me on the ‘local route’. And local it was! Through the karsts, into the farm land and valleys behind them, through small villages, no one around except giant pomelo orchards, Chinese sugarcane, and goats. Her shoes- small tennis shoes with minimal sole and mine- Merril hiking boots I bought this summer. Her clothes- a long sleeve shirt, some nice slacks, me- hiking pants, wicking t-shirt. Her water- one bottle of which she maybe took one sip. Me- a camelback of 2 liters which I chugged and even refilled. Every few minutes we’d stop and look at the scenery and she'd say '美丽' (beautiful). And she'd look at me and I would have to take a photo or we couldn't continue. 

Once we were closer to the ‘ancient town’ I noticed the difference immediately. New construction, giant cars, tourist in heels with flowers in their hair, multiple stops to see the 20 rmb view (and pay for a photo). The ancient town was exactly the tourist trap I had thought it would be but it's ok… I enjoyed our walk anyway. 

We stopped for lunch and then took the ‘river path’ back to Laojia. I had been told it was 2/2.5 hours… but 3 hours in, we were in the middle of the jungle, I was a bit delusional, dehydrated, confused. But mom just kept walking ahead and I followed.  We are silent, and I meditate on not passing out. She's was probably just thinking about her goats. We walked along the river on a narrow ledge, below only rocks and water… focus Rose, focus. It took immense mental strength to not just fall over!! Finally we arrived back at Laojia, me a bit sunstroked and exhausted, mom still smiling as always. 8 hours in the extreme heat. I knew that the next day I would relax and do nothing. Haibo told me mom went on a hike to visit her goats.  (face. palm)

Fortuantley, in all this heat, there was a beautiful river to cool off in. As the tourist boats pass by (once bamboo, now plastic), I go for a swim. Heavenly. The daylight dwindles, I drink some tea and read my book, pausing every so often to admire the view of my backyard.

The next day I did NOTHING. I sat by the water sipping coffee. I read my book. I sat in the courtyard. I sat by the water again. What a day. (Did i mention it was my birthday???)

Nighttime comes and its time for a boat ride under the stars with Mao and a couple travelers- one from the great state of Georgia and one from Taiwan. Mao is chatting and laughing. We get stuck in the shallow end of the river, I mean really stuck, and he laughs so hard as he tries in vain to push us out. Finally back to gliding along, watching the moonrise over the karsts, no one around except an occasional night fishing boat. As Mao chats, I listen to conversations of politics, life, China, America… trying my best to keep up but really just basking in the experience of this magical place. China, you keep on surprising me!