I Will Always Love Yu(nnan)
Alright folks. Some great updates here. I just returned to the freezing cold metropolis that is Beijing from the sunny, mountainous region of Southwest china: Yunnan Province. If you like trekking, beauty, waterfalls, good food, happy people, minorities, Tibetan influence, biking, farmland, then Yunnan is for you. I had an amazing week on my own there and wish I stayed longer.
Part 1: Kunming.
Kunming is a relaxed, laid back, spring all year type of city. I arrived late Sunday night and was determined to climb the talked about XiShan (western hills) the following day. Monday morning, I woke up and decided it was time for me to take a bus in China. I know, i know, how have I not done this? It's just easy in Beijing, to take Uber or the subway. But there I was in Kunming, starting a trip on my own, ready to try new things. So I found the bus and paid a whopping sum of... 1 rmb (roughtly 16 cents) Now from this bus I had to transfer to another bus. Success! I finally got off the bus because I saw an old man in hiking boots get off. I followed him through a construction site, completely confused but determined. Finally, we were at the foot of the hills and it was time for a tough hike up.
Boy was it worth the view. Apparently many years ago, a monk had carved these temples into the mountains by himself. Wow!
On my way down, I came across a temple, still in use! China is cool that way.
After a successful, grueling hike in Kunming it was time to move on. Overnight train to Lijiang, an ancient city just 150 kilometers east of Tibet.
Part 2: Lijiang
Wow, what can I say about Lijiang? It was the most beautiful, picturesque place I've ever been. Wandering through the small alleyways during the sunrise, watching a local Naxi woman prepare her shop, drinking my coffee from a rooftop that overlooks mountains at sunset, Lijiang was just magical. Words can't describe it so photos will have to do.
For my second day, I decided it was time to hike again. I've read a lot about Tiger Leaping Gorge. People have said it's the best hike in all of china. Well i didn't feel comfortable doing the two day trek alone (next time rose, next time!), but I did arrange a one day ride through my hostel. So I hop on the minivan at 730 am, arrive at a guesthouse by 10:30 am. The van driver says he'll pick me up at 3:30. Ok Rose, I tell myself-5 hours- you got this; you just go down to see the gorge and come back up..... ha! I did not have it. At all. Cue: many scared selfies to show my last moments before death.
After about 1.5 hours, I find the path I wanted in
the first place but this man says it will take 3 hours. I only had until 330 but I
though ok ill go for it and start BOOKING it down the mountain towards the
gorge. I mean running like the wind. Of course, 20 mins down and I get totally lost and have to back track all the
way up. By the way, for reference: ,I haven't eaten since 7 am, I have a bar of chocolate, and one
half bottle of water. So I walk back towards my drop off point, hoping to find the path I
should have taken, to see the middle gorge. I finally find a path and this new man tells me
2 hours to the ladders… but only 30 minutes down. So I book it, again, my feet are
killing and I'm pretty dehydrated! (Bad decisions rose!) I make it down in 20 mins and I think, ok I’ll just go for it! I’m walking along a path/cliff? that has a thin wire separating me from the rushing water and spiky rocks below. But I make it to the bottom. Sort of in one piece.
I finally come across civilization (well one woman in a hut who charges me 15 rmb to use the path but at least she had water to purchase!). the sun is finally out and its hot and dusty.I'm in the bottom of the gorge and need to get all the way back up before 3;30. Step after step…. My knees, my hamstrings… my parched throat. I come to a sign "Safe way to the left, if you are delirious, exhausted Go left!"… well what is to the right? Oh a giant ladder. But it will cut out a lot of the switch backs. Well I was delirious for sure, exhausted to the Nth degree, but I said, screw it. When do I get to take a shaky ladder up a mountain? So I climb. And climb. Counting as I go. Not looking up or down in case I lose my motivation.
I make it. And 45 mins later make it back to the guesthouse. I scarf down some food and its time to leave! What a day.
But I could escape. By hiking up my third mountain of the week (dont' worry I didnt go alone this time- found a hiking buddy- no more bad China trekking decisions ) and by biking around the beautiful lake. Dali and I got along great. Nature, fresh air, stunning views, local Bai in their farms. What a treat!
Part 1: Kunming.
Kunming is a relaxed, laid back, spring all year type of city. I arrived late Sunday night and was determined to climb the talked about XiShan (western hills) the following day. Monday morning, I woke up and decided it was time for me to take a bus in China. I know, i know, how have I not done this? It's just easy in Beijing, to take Uber or the subway. But there I was in Kunming, starting a trip on my own, ready to try new things. So I found the bus and paid a whopping sum of... 1 rmb (roughtly 16 cents) Now from this bus I had to transfer to another bus. Success! I finally got off the bus because I saw an old man in hiking boots get off. I followed him through a construction site, completely confused but determined. Finally, we were at the foot of the hills and it was time for a tough hike up.
Boy was it worth the view. Apparently many years ago, a monk had carved these temples into the mountains by himself. Wow!
On my way down, I came across a temple, still in use! China is cool that way.
After a successful, grueling hike in Kunming it was time to move on. Overnight train to Lijiang, an ancient city just 150 kilometers east of Tibet.
Part 2: Lijiang
Wow, what can I say about Lijiang? It was the most beautiful, picturesque place I've ever been. Wandering through the small alleyways during the sunrise, watching a local Naxi woman prepare her shop, drinking my coffee from a rooftop that overlooks mountains at sunset, Lijiang was just magical. Words can't describe it so photos will have to do.
For my second day, I decided it was time to hike again. I've read a lot about Tiger Leaping Gorge. People have said it's the best hike in all of china. Well i didn't feel comfortable doing the two day trek alone (next time rose, next time!), but I did arrange a one day ride through my hostel. So I hop on the minivan at 730 am, arrive at a guesthouse by 10:30 am. The van driver says he'll pick me up at 3:30. Ok Rose, I tell myself-5 hours- you got this; you just go down to see the gorge and come back up..... ha! I did not have it. At all. Cue: many scared selfies to show my last moments before death.
I am told if I do the far loop, it will take roughly three hours. So I start down the road to find the entrance for the path- it's unbearably freezing! The sun hadn’t come out from
the behind the mountain yet. The occasional van passes by but for the most part
its just me, jogging/walking to keep warm. A dog finds me and he follows me... running up ahead, then waiting for me to catch up. Then running ahead again. I was so lost and cold that I started to talk to him... for about an hour!!
I finally come across civilization (well one woman in a hut who charges me 15 rmb to use the path but at least she had water to purchase!). the sun is finally out and its hot and dusty.I'm in the bottom of the gorge and need to get all the way back up before 3;30. Step after step…. My knees, my hamstrings… my parched throat. I come to a sign "Safe way to the left, if you are delirious, exhausted Go left!"… well what is to the right? Oh a giant ladder. But it will cut out a lot of the switch backs. Well I was delirious for sure, exhausted to the Nth degree, but I said, screw it. When do I get to take a shaky ladder up a mountain? So I climb. And climb. Counting as I go. Not looking up or down in case I lose my motivation.
I make it. And 45 mins later make it back to the guesthouse. I scarf down some food and its time to leave! What a day.
Lijiang... I love you. but my trip isn't over. Time to get to Dali (aka hippie/backpacker heaven turned into a Williamsburg/hipster paradise)
Part 3: Dali
Dali is another beautiful ancient town, squished in between a lake and a mountain range in the amazing Yunnan. It's a bit more low key than Lijiang, and completely infested by...CHINESE HIPSTERS. Left and Right. Hipsters everywhere. Wait- i thought i left Brooklyn 5 months ago? But no! it's back! I can't escape it! ahhhhhhh. Slow drip pour over single brew coffee places everywhere. I was the most underdressed person there- and i've LIVED in brooklyn.
But I could escape. By hiking up my third mountain of the week (dont' worry I didnt go alone this time- found a hiking buddy- no more bad China trekking decisions ) and by biking around the beautiful lake. Dali and I got along great. Nature, fresh air, stunning views, local Bai in their farms. What a treat!
I was nervous to take a week traveling in China alone but I learned a lot. I can depend on the kindness of (chinese) strangers. That time that I left my bank card at the train station window and they found me on the train to return it. Or when the hostel only charged me 3 dollars to rent a bike for the day because they felt like it When I was nice to someone, that person was nice to me. And many Chinese go above and beyond to help out a lost traveller. Yes I got shoved off a bus, had my photo taken many times without permission, got ripped off buying street food, but I survived and I fell in love with Yunnan!
Wow! What a fantastic adventure!
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